![]() Paul I have a question regarding the need to remove but not but in a new MOV. Many more potential customers just give up on the whole product category thinking that warranty length is not an indicator of product life costs. Many of then don’t buy from us until after half a decade or more of paying to service our multiple competitors 1 year warrantied products. Most potential customers already balk at the higher cost of our products (2x to 20x the competition). Most of the power side MOVs we ship are still OK 35 years later so the extra cost isn’t economical for us. I don’t include a fuse in my product designs because of the high cost of a fuse and holder and with my designs the warranty is only 5 years and I’ve never had an MOV fail in less than 10. The fuse will prevent that failure mode from burning out the expensive AC adapter as well as protect against damage from the nearly certain future failure of the new MOV. At some point in the future, maybe not for another decade or more, some other parts are going to fail and cause a different fault, excess current draw. Since you’ve got it, I’d leave the fuse in place to give extra protection to the AC adapter. No you don’t need to do any more troubleshooting, install a new MOV and you should be good to go. So I’ve helped our technicians with troubleshooting these types of failure symptoms many times. For the last almost 40 years I’ve worked at one company designing small AC powered instruments that on average stay in service for 25 years. ![]() Although it was more than a decade before I actually saw a failed unit. I knew that this type of failure will happen given a long enough time in service when I first learned about and added MOV’s as surge protectors to products 35 years ago. Your very welcome, I love to help others with problem solving. ![]() These boards cost $200 new and can be had for $80 used but I hate to throw it away if there is a simple answer to the problem. Also, if anyone is interested in trying to repair this for a fee, I would be interested in talking to you. I would welcome any suggestions about things that I could look at as possible faults. I don’t see anything on the front or back of the board that looks like it could be shorting out the board, resulting in a blown transformer. ![]() ![]() Again, everything on the board works just fine when only the battery is connected. While I had the 18v power connected, the green LED in the lower right-hand corner came on, the way it is supposed to, to indicate that the board has external power. However, the board blew a second transformer, so there is something going on. The first time this happened, I figured it was just a bad transformer. The problem is that, for some reason, when I connect the 18-volt power-in from the manufacturer-specified transformer, it blows the thermofuse in the transformer (which cannot be replaced). Right now, the board runs exactly as it should when only the battery is connected. The board uses a 12-volt battery backup, and it receives an 18-volt DC current to keep the battery charged. I have a gate opener system that is powered by a small circuit board, shown in the accompanying photos. ![]()
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